Our Vanishing Wilderness
“In wildness is the preservation of the World,”
- Henry Thoreau
When she was in her early twenties, my daughter Gayley announced she was going off for a three-month NOLS semester. Since I had no idea what NOLS, I smiled and said, “Great.” I soon learned that NOLS stands for National Outdoor Leadership School, and Gayley had just signed up for three months of backpacking, rock climbing, and kayaking deep in the Wyoming wilderness. When I dropped her off at the Philadelphia airport a few weeks later, my child looked barely bigger than the backpack she wrestled out of the trunk. Driving home, I wondered when the call would come to drive back and pick her up.
That call never came, but three months later a tan, healthy, and newly self-confident woman walked into the house. “Dad,” she said, “you have got to do this.” These were not exactly the words I wanted to hear. I was not a young man, and the closest I’d gotten to summer camp as a child was Allan Sherman’s “Camp Grenada” (“Hello Muddah, Hello Faddah).
Less than a year later I found myself at the NOLS staging area in Fairbanks, Alaska, preparing for a two-week stroll through the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge or ANWR. Our group consisted of two guides and 12 students, of which I was the oldest by roughly two generations. My nickname, of course, was “Jerry” – for geriatric. That afternoon we emptied our backpacks and watched the guides confiscate everything they deemed non-essential, which was pretty much everything. One girl was allowed to keep two of the 14 pairs of underpants she had brought. We then refilled our packs with food, camping gear, gas cylinders, pots and pans, a stove, first aid kits, and other requisites for survival. Each of us was to carry 70 percent of our body weight. When I hoisted my pack to my shoulders, I almost fell over.
The next morning we set off into what the 1964 Wilderness Act defines as “an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” NOLS, and its fervent devotion to “leave no trace,” intended to keep it that way. Anything we brought in we either (1) ate (no matter how many mosquitos we found in the peanut butter) or (2) buried in 12-inch holes with the smooth rocks we used for toilet paper or (3) carried out. Not a grain of rice was left behind.
ANWR, all 19+ million acres of it, is as remote as any place on earth. It hasn’t the beauty of a conventional landscape: on the way up from Fairbanks we passed a lone spruce and a sign identifying it as “the last tree in Alaska.” But its vast stretches of tundra and mountains, rivers and wildlife took my breath away.
We hiked in 80-degree heat, and we sometimes woke up in snow. We saw grizzly bears and caribou, wolves and many birds. Three of us camped on the Continental Divide, which in Alaska runs east-west and is only 3,000 feet above sea level. Out there, so far from anything familiar, I understood as never before my cosmic inconsequence, and yet I felt connected to this vast place and all its inhabitants. Solitude and community seemed to me no longer polar opposites but part of a single spectrum.
And I saw how fragile we humans have made it all. Only a stump remains of the last tree in Alaska, which vandals cut down in 2004. Oil companies have been trying to drill in the refuge since 1977, and for 49 years coalitions of environmentalists, native groups, and climate activists have thwarted them. But now, as it pursues “energy dominance,”the current administration has leases drawn up and ready to sign.
It’s time, I think, to transcend this obsession with dominance and to redefine what we mean by progress. We are neither outside of nature nor in control of it. We are part of it, and we depend on it. Yes, it will be here long after we have gone, but for now at least, it also depends on us.